Moab

Four years ago, life was simpler. Kaiya and I were living on the road. In our car. No bills, no responsibilities save waking up and making breakfast, then deciding where to climb for the day. On that road trip I became obsessed with a boulder problem. Hell Belly.

In an effort to avoid some bad weather and generate a pleasant 16 extra hours of driving, I freaked out in a Fort Collins coffee shop and mandated that we drive to Moab, where it was dry and climbable, albeit 80 degrees during the day.

We spent a few days there battling the heat and waking up at 530 am to sneak in a few hours before the sun began metamorphosing the sandstone (geology pun). Kaiya was able to send Slimper V3, and I pulled off Circus Trick V4-while working Hell Belly. I wasn’t able to link from the sit start into the stand at the time but the seed was definitely planted. I love compression climbing-more than Jon Glassberg I think-and this boulder suited me very well. I couldn’t put it down in the heat, but vowed to return in better temps and send the boulder.

This year, after waiting all this time I was able to come back and dispatch it pretty quickly. Somewhere around 10 tries from the start. One thing about this boulder is that it is incredibly physical. One of the most physical boulders I have ever climbed. Putting it next to most things of the (V11) grade in Utah it stands head and shoulders alone above and beyond all the others I have tried and done. That is one reason it it so special.

I was able to climb it on a day with good friends, not in the greatest of conditions, and bleeding from my ankles and forearm. A full value send that was memorable and emotional for me. Not every boulder means a lot when you get to the top, but this one did and I am really psyched to have put it down!

Enjoy the photos and video!